Panjim, Goa: 19 Dec 2006, 01:27

Flight left Heathrow at 21:00
Didn't sleep much on the flight - watched Jenifer Aniston "The Break-up", "You, Me and Dupree", drifted in and out to a Keanu Reeves film, the name of which I forget.

Arrived Mumbai on schedule - uncrowded and efficient at the airport - collected suitcase and transferred to the internal flight to Goa. Left on time at 14:35 (India time) and arrived Goa 15:35.

I noticed that the shanty town dwellings (basically sheds with ramshackle rooves) were pressed hard up against the boundary walls of the airport. This was my first sight of the abject poverty one hears of in India.

Met rep outside airport arrivals - good to see a friendly face. He explained that due to "Indian trouble" the car wasn't available to take me to the hotel and so he would arrange a taxi for me. I looked around and immediately realised that most of the cars at the airport were "vintage" looking - then I saw my taxi.

The taxi was actually a very small van with a seat in the back. In the case went and then we set off.

I had heard other students comment on their taxi ride from the airport in Delhi but thought that out in the countryside things might be a little more relaxed. I quickly realised that this wasn't necessarily the case as the driver pulled out into traffic and immediately started leaning on the horn.

After a few minutes on the major route my driver pulled off on to a country road. I got my first look at the countryside - it was jungle. Tall palm trees, luscious green vegetation, people working the fields. Absolutely beautiful.

The driver continued down the lane at break-neck speed. Rounding a corner, suddenly another taxi was right in front of us - we were on a collision course - the driver blew his horn. So did the other taxi. How we missed each other I'll never know as I had my eyes closed awaiting the inevitable impact. That was pretty much the theme for the next 30 mins.

As the traffic on the road increased (mopeds, trucks, pedestrians, oxen), so the driving style adjusted accordingly. The basic idea seems to be: get past the driver in front at all costs - surviving without injuring yourself or the person coming the other coming the other way is down to technique, skill and experience.

Going up a reasonable incline, I noticed that a van and a moped were 3 abreast trying to get past a slower vehicle. Oncoming traffic was swerving in order to prevent a pile-up. My driver joined the pack of vehicles swarming all over the rear of the slower vehicle. How we got passed I don't know (my eyes were once again tightly shut!).

As we sped on, the driver continually blowing the horn, I noticed that cricket was being played everywhere. In fields, in playgrounds, on waste ground, groups of children were playing - a great sight to see.

On our way down a hill into Panjiim (my destination), I could see a sharp bend ahead. The sharp bend became a mini-roundabout as we drew closer. My driver went straight out on to it without slowing for any oncoming traffic - as we got round suddenly there was a cow the road. Mopeds (driven by riders with no crash hats, often with women riding side-saddle-pillion carrying unfeasibly large cardboard boxes) and other vehicles were swerving to avoid it - we were heading right for it. I said to myself "um, there's a cow in the road, there's a cow in the road, THERE'S A COW IN THE ROAD!!!". Luckily, we missed it.

I arrived at Hotel Menino, Panjiim (in one piece) having gained somewhat of an understanding of the way to drive in India - on the surface it is chaotic but the horns are used to warn other road users that you are coming and will most likely attempt to overtake. It must work to a certain degree, I guess.

Once in my room I check for mozzies - none. The room is cool and the air-con works well (if a little noisily). So this will be my home for the next few weeks - it's basic but comfortable and the staff seem pleasant and efficient.

Sleep for 5.5 hours.

AT 11pm I ordered chicken and rice with 4 large bottles of water and a cup of tea. Very welcome indeed. Kofi Annan is on BBC News 24 talking about his biggest regrets during his time as UN Secretary - I think he is a very brave and humble man.

As I write this I'm growing tired again and am looking at the bed. Tomorrow I get a day to acclimatise before the work begins. I'm going out to explore...